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La
Liguria
Embraced by sea and
mountains, Liguria is a land where the natural landscape gives this region
a really unique ruggedness and color palette. Genoa is the region's principal
city and located as it is at its midpoint, it divides the region into
two distinct Rivieras.
West of Genoa, is the so-called Riviera dei Fiori, with a mild climate
and luscious sub-tropical vegetation. Flower cultures are well known around
the world: in fact, each year, for the famous New Year's Concert, Vienna's
Philharmonic Concert Hall is embellished exclusively with flowers grown
in Liguria. Bordighera, San Remo, Diano, Alassio, Albisola are only a
few of the charming small cities nestled along its natural bays, with
gorgeous sandy beaches warmed by a mild sea and screened from the cold
north winds by the Appennine Alps.
To the East of Genoa, along the Riviera di Levante, steep cliffs climb
right out of the sea. The sight of craggy cliffs diving into a deep blue
sea in a dazzling clash of colors in some locations is absolutely breathtaking.
French writer Montesquieu wrote in his 1728 book A trip to Italy, ³The
port of La Spezia, that is its gulf, is one of the most beautiful sights
in Italy².
Along this Riviera are resorts that are known around the world. Some of
these sites are too exclusive for the average tourist. Portofino, or as
the Romans called it Portus Delphini, is one of them. This quaint resort's
characteristics are truly timeless. Further along the Riviera in San Fruttuoso
di Camogli, reachable only by sea, the air carries the scent of a million
flowers and everything seems motionless and unvarying.
Sestri Levante is perched along an isthmus connecting an island to the
mainland and its beaches known as Bay of Fables and Bay of Silence have
attracted famous people like Lord Byron, Goethe, Wagner. At the top of
the island is the small Torretta (tower) from where Guglielmo Marconi
did his experiments. And then there are the Cinque Terre: Monterosso,
Vernazza, Cornelia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.
These five pure gems embed this splendid land of Liguria: small houses
appear to be hugging one another in an embrace. At times, they surround
a small castle, protected by walls, surrounded by vineyards and touched
by the sea. (Incidently, the world famous Sciacchetra wine is produced
in this section of Liguria). Today, the Cinque Terre attract thousands
of tourists that are fascinated by the scenery, by the clear waters, by
the uncontaminated seabed, but also by the local cuisine rich in genuine
flavors.
This is where the products of the sea are united with those of the earth
to satisfy the most discerning palates. Heirich Heine in 1828 said this
about Liguria: "Not far from Genoa and from the cliffs of the Appennine
lies the sea. Its blue color glistens through the greenish cliffs and
boats here and there seem to sail atop the mountains.
To enjoy this spectacular view at sunset, when the last blades of light
duel with the first evening shadows and all colors and shapes are engulfed
in an ethereal cloud, you can't help but think you are living in a wonderful
land."
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Genoa
Genoa is a splendid city situated along the Gulf of Liguria
and draws its origin deep back in time. A legend claims that it was founded
by Giano, king of the Aborigines who were ancestors to the Romans. More
realistically, the name Genova (Italian for Genoa), can be traced to the
term Genua which in Celtic means "entry", accurately describing Genoa's
role as a principal seaport for the people of northwestern Italy. The
history of Genoa mirrored that of the people of Liguria in general up
until the second century B.C. A fight for dominance in the region broke
out between Genoa and Rome and lasted for nearly 120 years, with fortunes
shifting back and forth. Finally in the year 7 B.C., Rome prevailed. Despite
the defeat, Rome's influence spurred the growth of Genoa which in time
became the foremost maritime and commercial center of Liguria. Invasions
by the Romans and then by Barbarians followed through the centuries. Nonetheless,
the city always managed to endure and often even turn the situation to
its advantage. Genoa gave its contribution to the Crusades, opening new
horizons to trade and extending its dominion along the coastlines. By
the year 1200, Genoa approached its maximum splendor and came to be referred
to as "The Superb" for its stunning palaces, with their polished marble
and stunning views. Of all this, Sigmund Freud would write centuries later:
"You can easily recognize Genoa. It is imposing, solid, somewhat stern,
clean, wealthy..."
Christopher
Columbus
In 1451 Genoa "The Superb" was the birthplace of its most daring citizen,
Christopher Columbus, who in 1492 crossed the uncharted Atlantic ocean
and landed on the island of San Salvador, commencing the colonization
of the Americas by Europe.
Genoa
"The Superb" today
Genoa can pride itself in having one of the largest and most historically
fascinating city centers in Europe. This is not only the city where Columbus
was born. It is also the birthplace of Italy's Renaissance heroes Giuseppe
Mazzini, Giuseppe Garibaldi and Nino Bixio, as well as writer Eugenio
Montale and composer Niccolò Paganini. It is today the same proud city
that inspired Wagner to write: "There is something indescribably beautiful,
grandiose and distinguishing here; Paris and London pale by comparison
with this divine city, ranking as plain and shapeless conglomerates of
homes and streets". Gustave Flaubert also wrote: "the most beautiful thing
I've seen during my voyage was Genoa... a city of marble with gardens
brimming with roses. A beauty that tears at the soul... It must be sweet
to be in love in these settings." Untamed and gorgeous, Genoa's hills,
its tiny paths, its hundreds of remote small squares reveal themselves
unexpectedly to tourists. Offering lavish panoramas of patrician villas,
enticing coastline and pristine beaches, Genoa is and forever will be
"The Superb".
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